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Information > Preparing Your Floor

DIY - Preparing your timber floor

So you're Timber Floor has been laid and you've decided to finish it yourself. Before you get started be sure to take these few important steps before you stain or oil your timber floor. Remember, floors that will receive a clear coating require more preparation than a painted finish, but all will need some degree of sanding and filling to ensure a beautiful but durable finish.

Here's what you'll need:

  • Claw hammer and nail punch
  • Upright power sander
  • Pliers
  • Hand sander
  • Abrasive paper
  • Cork sanding block
  • Bleach and scrubbing brush
    (optional – if you want to lighten the appearance of your floor)
  • Filling blades
  • Putty knife
  • Wood filler
  • Clear sealer
  • Protective glasses and dust mask

Step 1 – Cleaning up

Before sanding the floor, carefully inspect the surface for any protruding nail heads and obvious splits on the edges of the floorboards. If you do not remove these hazards before you begin work, you could damage your sanding machine or worse, injure yourself.

Hammer in protruding nails and secure loose boards. Remove any protruding objects with pliers or the claw hammer. If the floor has an existing wax coating, you will need to remove it before sanding or the wax will clog the abrasive paper. Use a commercial wax stripper for the task, rinse the floor clean and allow to dry. Remember, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and keep the amount of water to a minimum to avoid cupping and splitting as the timber dries.

If the floor has been previously painted, you will need to remove the paint. You can do this one of three ways: 1. Heat Gun 2. Liquid Paint Stripper 3. Sanding. Whichever methods you choose make sure the room is well ventilated.

If the floor has been stained previously – you will need to sand the surface deeply to remove it.

Step 2 – Sanding

To achieve the best possible clear finish – the floorboards will need to be thoroughly sanded. However, if the floor has an existing clear finish and you are going to re-coat it, then a light sanding may be all that is required. Remember to clean away the all the dust and apply the new coat.

If your floor is new – you'll need to do a little more work before you can apply the clear coating. When new tongue and groove boards are laid, there can be a tendency for the joints to sit up and you will need to make the floor smooth and level. Use an upright power sanding machine to do the job as it will be much quicker than using a hand sander. However, you will need to use the hand sander for the edges and corners. Do this after each stage with the upright sander, remembering to use the appropriate abrasive paper – you may need to use the scraper for tight corners.

  • Remove all furniture from the room and seal doors into other parts of the house to contain the dust. Open all the windows.
  • Fit coarse abrasive paper to the upright machine, switch it on and lower it gently to the floor. It will move forward and you should guide it at a steady pace. Always keep the machine moving on the surface so that it doesn't dig into the floorboards and leave unsightly scars. Sand the floor in a diagonal direction (from one corner to the other). When you reach the corner, tilt the machine and turn it. Overlap each strip slightly as you go. Repeat the process in the opposite direction.
  • Change the paper to medium and sand in the direction of the boards, and then use fine paper.
  • Finally vacuum up all the wood dust.

Step 3 (Optional) - Bleaching your floor

If you want to lighten the colour of the sanded floor, you can bleach it. Ordinary domestic bleach scrubbed in and rinsed off with clean water will do a lot to lighten a floor. You can also purchase stronger chemical bleaches which are applied in stages. These should be used in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Take care as the concentrated fumes can be dangerous. Wear a protective mask and open all doors and windows to ensure good ventilation.

Step 4 - Repairing Faults

After sanding, fill any knot holes, cracks or nail holes. First apply a thin coat of clear or sanding sealer around the defect so that the dye or tint colour in the filling compound will not spread further than the hole or the crack it was meant for. Then apply the stopping (filling) compound with a filling or putty knife to obtain a firm, flat finish to the hole.

Take care when choosing the colour of the filler compound. Proprietary compounds come in a range of colours to match specific timber types. Timber has a natural variation in colour, so it may be necessary to use several colours to disguise the surface imperfections. Try out the filler first on a piece of matching floorboard.

Common filling materials:

  • Linseed oil putty – this soft putty takes a long time to harden. It is traditionally used for filling nail holes. The putty can be coloured to suite the natural timber or stain.
  • Lacquer putty – this fast drying putty dries hard and can be sanded level. Apply it to bare timber as the lacquer base can penetrate and discolour most stains. It comes in a variety of colours that can be mixed to obtain special colours.
  • Water based putty- this fast drying material dries hard and is very easily sanded. Use it on interior timbers before staining and finishing. It is ideal for repairing deep holes, although two or more applications may be required. It can be tinted to match the required finish. If you are going to stain the floor, choose a lighter colour of putty as it will become darker when the stain is applied.

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