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Preparing Your Floor
DIY - Preparing your timber floor
So you're Timber Floor has been laid
and you've decided to finish it yourself. Before you get started
be sure to take these few important steps before you stain or oil
your timber floor. Remember, floors that will receive a clear
coating require more preparation than a painted finish, but all
will need some degree of sanding and filling to ensure a
beautiful but durable finish.
Here's what you'll need:
- Claw hammer and nail punch
- Upright power sander
- Pliers
- Hand sander
- Abrasive paper
- Cork sanding block
- Bleach and scrubbing brush
(optional – if you want to lighten the appearance of your
floor)
- Filling blades
- Putty knife
- Wood filler
- Clear sealer
- Protective glasses and dust mask
Step 1 – Cleaning up
Before sanding the floor,
carefully inspect the surface for any protruding nail heads and
obvious splits on the edges of the floorboards. If you do not
remove these hazards before you begin work, you could damage your
sanding machine or worse, injure yourself.
Hammer in protruding nails and
secure loose boards. Remove any protruding objects with pliers or
the claw hammer. If the floor has an existing wax coating, you
will need to remove it before sanding or the wax will clog the
abrasive paper. Use a commercial wax stripper for the task, rinse
the floor clean and allow to dry. Remember, always follow the
manufacturer’s instructions, and keep the amount of water
to a minimum to avoid cupping and splitting as the timber
dries.
If the floor has been
previously painted, you will need to remove the paint. You can do
this one of three ways: 1. Heat Gun 2. Liquid Paint Stripper 3.
Sanding. Whichever methods you choose make sure the room is well
ventilated.
If the floor has been stained
previously – you will need to sand the surface deeply to
remove it.
Step 2 – Sanding
To achieve the best possible
clear finish – the floorboards will need to be thoroughly
sanded. However, if the floor has an existing clear finish and
you are going to re-coat it, then a light sanding may be all that
is required. Remember to clean away the all the dust and apply
the new coat.
If your floor is new –
you'll need to do a little more work before you can apply the
clear coating. When new tongue and groove boards are laid, there
can be a tendency for the joints to sit up and you will need to
make the floor smooth and level. Use an upright power sanding
machine to do the job as it will be much quicker than using a
hand sander. However, you will need to use the hand sander for
the edges and corners. Do this after each stage with the upright
sander, remembering to use the appropriate abrasive paper –
you may need to use the scraper for tight corners.
- Remove all furniture from the room and seal doors into
other parts of the house to contain the dust. Open all the
windows.
- Fit coarse abrasive paper to the upright machine, switch
it on and lower it gently to the floor. It will move forward
and you should guide it at a steady pace. Always keep the
machine moving on the surface so that it doesn't dig into the
floorboards and leave unsightly scars. Sand the floor in a
diagonal direction (from one corner to the other). When you
reach the corner, tilt the machine and turn it. Overlap each
strip slightly as you go. Repeat the process in the opposite
direction.
- Change the paper to medium and sand in the direction of
the boards, and then use fine paper.
- Finally vacuum up all the wood dust.
Step 3 (Optional) - Bleaching your floor
If you want to lighten the
colour of the sanded floor, you can bleach it. Ordinary domestic
bleach scrubbed in and rinsed off with clean water will do a lot
to lighten a floor. You can also purchase stronger chemical
bleaches which are applied in stages. These should be used in
accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Take care
as the concentrated fumes can be dangerous. Wear a protective
mask and open all doors and windows to ensure good
ventilation.
Step 4 - Repairing Faults
After sanding, fill any knot
holes, cracks or nail holes. First apply a thin coat of clear or
sanding sealer around the defect so that the dye or tint colour
in the filling compound will not spread further than the hole or
the crack it was meant for. Then apply the stopping (filling)
compound with a filling or putty knife to obtain a firm, flat
finish to the hole.
Take care when choosing the
colour of the filler compound. Proprietary compounds come in a
range of colours to match specific timber types. Timber has a
natural variation in colour, so it may be necessary to use
several colours to disguise the surface imperfections. Try out
the filler first on a piece of matching floorboard.
Common filling materials:
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Linseed oil putty – this soft putty takes a long time
to harden. It is traditionally used for filling nail holes.
The putty can be coloured to suite the natural timber or
stain.
-
Lacquer putty – this fast drying putty dries hard and
can be sanded level. Apply it to bare timber as the lacquer
base can penetrate and discolour most stains. It comes in a
variety of colours that can be mixed to obtain special
colours.
-
Water based putty- this fast drying material dries hard and
is very easily sanded. Use it on interior timbers before
staining and finishing. It is ideal for repairing deep
holes, although two or more applications may be required.
It can be tinted to match the required finish. If you are
going to stain the floor, choose a lighter colour of putty
as it will become darker when the stain is applied.
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